Twisted Metal Promotions (TMP)
Compact
2023 RACING RULES AND REGULATIONS
https://twistedmetalpromotions.weebly.com/
2023_tmp_compact_rules.docx.pdf | |
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All decisions shall be made by the track officials and all decisions are FINAL no Exceptions. ***If car does not pass inspection & driver is unwilling to change car to pass inspection – ABSOLUTELY NO REFUNDS OR RUNNING OF EVENT***
General Rules
General Rules
- Drivers must be 18 years of age and have a valid driver’s license. Ages 15 –17 must have a waiver/release signed by parent or guardian at time of event and some form of driver’s license. The person that signs in as the driver/passenger- must be the driver/passenger for that event!
- Must have helmet and eye protection. Full face helmets, fire jacket/pants recommended.
- ALL drivers and crewmembers must attend the drivers meeting.
- DO NOT hit the driver’s door! Sometimes this happens, but if it looks intentional or careless, you will be disqualified. Don’t use your door as a shield; it may cause you to get disqualified. No hot rodding in the pits, keep it at an idle.
- If the driver or passenger door comes open or more than one fire this could cause you to be disqualified. You may fix it and come back and run the consolation.
- Must run a heat race to run in the consolation or feature.
- NO sandbagging or holding!!! This can cause you to be disqualified! You are given 20 seconds for aggressive hits, 1 minute for restarts and 1 minute if you are hung up.
- No alcohol in the pits, if anyone is caught with alcohol, this could cause you to be disqualified, this includes their pit crew.
- Cars are subject to re-inspection before any prize money is handed out. There is a $150 pro-test fee and you must be a driver to protest. Only drivers in the feature event may pro-test another car. Drivers must have cash in hand directly after a feature event to pro-test.
- You must have a number In Bright colors on each front door and must have a 15”x15” roof sign with car number on it for judging and recognition of the car.
- If it doesn’t say you can do it, this means more than likely you can’t do it. Judges' decisions are FINAL!!!!
- Anything can be removed unless stated in the rules, Nothing can be added unless stated in the rules or approved by officials.
- Any front wheel drive compact car 109” or less wheelbase or any rear wheel drive compact cars 105” or less wheelbase.
- Any make sedan or station wagon can be run. No MINI- VANS, SUV, or all wheel drives!!
- All cars must be stock unless modification is stated in the rules.
- All glass, plastic, chrome, and interior, all decking in station wagons, trailer hitches and braces must be removed.
- Tires no bigger than 16 inches, No split rims, No studded tires. Foam filled or doubled tires OK. Valve stem protectors OK. Tires may be screwed to rims.
- Stock or aftermarket same size aluminum radiator ok (in stock location).
- All cars must have working brakes.
- Original fuel tanks in front of the rear axle may remain but factory tank and straps must be in good shape (not rusted out or broken), must relocate the fill tube through the floor into the backseat area. Secure fill tube to sheet metal. Fuel tank behind the rear axles must be removed. You must use a well-made fuel cell or metal tank (plastic aftermarket gas tanks must be placed in a metal box and covered. ) and must be properly secured. No plastic or metal gas cans. Fuel line must be secured and fastened properly. Keep away from exhaust. Place the fuel tank behind the driver's seat or in the center of the car in the back-seat area. You are allowed 1 electric inline fuel pump must be secured in a safe place and must be wired into the ignition switch so when the ignition switch is off the fuel pump shuts off as well. (No high-performance fuel systems.) ANY UNSAFE, UNSECURED OR LEAKING TANKS OR FUEL LINES, WILL NOT BE ALLOWED TO RUN!!!!
- Transmission coolers will be allowed but must be safe and properly secured.
- Battery must be relocated to the passenger floorboard and must be secured properly and covered. (only 1 battery allowed).
- Limited amount of spray foam no spray foaming in areas where inspectors need to inspect cars (if in areas that need to be inspected you may be asked to remove all spray foam).
- NO welding will be allowed on any part of the body or frame. The only welding allowed is in the below rules. If your car is found with any welds, plating, strengthening or other modifications, other than what’s allowed, and you refuse to fix it to the judge’s satisfaction you will not run!!
- NO PAINTING, UNDERCOATING, OILING, OR GREASING OF FRAMES.
- Doors may be chained, wired, bolted (cannot go around the frame), or welded shut. May weld doors solid with no bigger than 3” wide strap by 1/8” thick.
- For driver’s protection, you must have a bar behind the seat from doorpost to doorpost, maybe welded or bolted it can be an X, you may also have a bar across your dash, you may connect the dash bar to bars behind seat across the inside of front door only, you may also weld your steering column in, you can also weld a plate across the driver’s door not to exceed 6 inches past each seam. You may have a roll loop behind the seat, which must be welded or bolted to the top of the frame or floor – no kickers going to the back or front of the car. Back of the cage, including the roll bar, can only be in front of the body mount behind the back seat. Mopars can only be in front of spring mounts. Side bars can only be 60” long; this does include a dash bar and halo bar and be 6” from floor and must be horizontal . Dash Bar must be 6 inches away from the firewall and frame connection to the firewall.
- You are allowed 2 down bars per side going down from the inside cross bar. Front down bars must be behind the inside of the front door interior seam and the 2nd bar must stay in the door area or will be cut out. Welded to the top of the frame only, no added metal. Down bars must be vertical and not exceed 4” diameter. All other cage components can be too or near 6” diameter. ALL CAGE AND CAGE MATERIAL EXCEPT HALO BAR MUST BE INSIDE THE CAR. ALL CAGES MUST BE SAFE AND SECURE!!!
- You must have 2 bars or wires or chain from roof to dash in the windshield for safety. Window bars can only be 3 inches wide with 5 inches on the roof and 5 inches on the dash. But must be able to escape from the car.
- Bumpers are interchangeable, you may use a stuffed bumper but must be a factory bumper with factory shape. You may trim bumper ends or fold them around. Homemade bumpers will be allowed or you may use a flat square or round tube no bigger than 6” (6x4 square or 6 inch round) ¼” thick. Bumpers can not be wider than fenders. Bumpers and brackets may be welded solid. Brackets cannot join k-member and uni-body together in any way. Brackets are interchangeable from car to car but can't exceed 12” long. If you don’t use a factory bracket, you’ll be limited to a 12-inch bracket from the end of the frame. Homemade brackets cannot exceed 3/8” thick by 3” wide by 12” long and must have a 1/2” inspection hole. Brackets must stay factory length or can be shortened but you CAN’T lengthen brackets to make them longer (no reinforcing brackets). Only 1 bracket allowed per-side. Bumpers may be stuffed inside of the Original bumper only. Brackets can be welded solid but can only be welded to 1 side of the frame. NO Brackets may be stuffed inside of the frame rail. You may have 4 spots 9 wire with no more than 4 loops or 3/8 chain from front bumper to radiator support- 4 spots from rear bumper to trunk lid. Front brackets on front only!!!
- No sharp edges or points, flat surface on bumper on all sides. Part A Back to point no more than 9”, Part B no less than 32” wide, Part C no more than 6” thick and Part D no more than 4”.
HOOD/TRUNKS:
Rear Wheel Drive
ENGINE MOUNTING:
Any car that has an excessive amount of issues or time consuming changes (plates, cage, suspension, ect. or simply doesn't read the rules), inspection will stop and you will be asked to load. These rules are explanatory and easy to understand if they are read, with all this in mind this will speed up the inspection process.
- Hood must have at least a 12-inch square hole cut out in case of fire. You are allowed 12 extra- 3/8” bolts to bolt your hood skins (NOT TRUNK SKIN) back together. You will be allowed 8 spots to hold the hood down (bolts, chain, or wire); you MUST have at least 4 spots holding hood down- hood hinges don’t count! You may have up to 1” all thread –2 may be used from the hood down to the frame. The top 5” of all thread may be welded to radiator support, rear-wheel drive all thread must go through front body mount, no welding. Bolts can be welded to the side of the unibody frame. Hood bolts can be up to 1 inch in diameter and 5 inches long. Bolts must be straight, not angled. Hood bolts must be sheet metal to sheet metal. Hood must be open for inspection. Plates for hood bolts cannot exceed 5x5x1/2 inch and must be free floating.
- Car must have a hood or you will not run, no exception.
- 2 - 1” All-thread may go from the trunk lid to the frame, or you may use wire in 2 spots with 4 loops from the trunk lid and may go around the frame with the wire. CAN’T DO BOTH. (wagon roofs are not trunk lids) If you use all thread you are only to use 4 nuts and 4 washers per piece of all thread.
- Trunk lids and tailgates may be chained/wired/bolted from sheet metal to sheet metal, in 12 spots in the drip rail area. The bolts may not be any bigger than 3/8” in size and 4” long. If chain/wire/bolts are not used, you can weld 5 inches skip 5 inches using no bigger than 3” wide materials. CAN’T DO BOTH.
Rear Wheel Drive
- Body mounts on the rear wheel drive must remain stock, but if the bolt is rusted out or broken, you may replace it with the same size/length bolt. Bolt must be up inside of the frame as a factory with nothing up inside the frame except factory rubber and washer. No added body mounts, bolts, washer or plates allowed! DO NOT remove any part of the factory body mount!
- If you use all thread in the hood or trunk, the body mount rubber may be replaced with a steel body mount of the same thickness as factory rubber mount- 1 1/4-inch.
- On front wheel drive, do not weld on k-member frame or uni-body frame seams.
- K-member can be bolted solid in factory location to uni-body frame. NO added bolts or welding.
- No engine cradles, no transmission cradles or pulley protectors allowed.
- No frame shaping except for beating in the sides only of rear arches over tires. Nothing else.
- Frames may not be shortened past the factory radiator front body mount.
- Tie-rods ends must be stock, A-arms, ball joints and all other steering/suspension must remain OE stock or OE stock replacement, NO REINFORCEMENT OR AFTERMARKET. You may alter your steering column to prevent loss of steering. Steering knuckles, homemade steering shafts, etc. can be used.
- Struts may be reinforced with a sleeve but must remain stock on both ends. No other reinforcement.
- Suspension must be at stock height. Leaf springs must be stock, stock brackets and in stock location for make and model of car no more than 3 clamps total per-side per-car. NO adding springs or leaf spring conversions. Stock springs only! Rear end control arms must be stock in stock location and can’t be reinforced. You can put spacers in sagging coil springs to get your height. You can loop chain or wire from rear end to frame in 2 spots on each side. No bigger than #9 wire or 3/8” chain or cable may be used.
- Upper A-Arms may be bolted down solid once per A-arm with a maximum of 1/2” x 2” bolt. 1/2” washers only or you can use 1 loop of 3/8” chain around frame and over A-arm or may weld 1 strap 2”X4”X1/8” over the center of A-arm, strap only can be welded. You can use only one of these methods.
- Factory car rear ends only, no aftermarket, homemade or floaters of any kind.
- Must use factory rear ends for make/model of car with factory parts. You can use a spool inside the rear-end to make a posi-track. You can swap out rear ends but must use factory rear end brackets and mounting hardware for make/model of car.Rear-end housings may not be re-enforced or strengthened in any way!
ENGINE MOUNTING:
- May use any motor and OE tranny of choice and mounted in stock location with the stock mounts. If running a standard transmission may use a steel scattered shield must have a factory OEM transmission mount or free floating and tunnel must be cut out. NO tranny braces on automatic or standard tranny, no steel bells or steel tail housing on automatics
- NO distributor cap protectors, pulley protectors or cradles allowed.
- Engine mounts may be welded to the engine cradle. Engine must be mounted in stock location.
- Motor cannot be mounted solid and must have a bolt as a pivot point. Must be the factory style motor mount and bracket. No homemade or aftermarket.
- You may have (2) 3/8” chains from the motor head to frame and may go around the frame or weld 2 links to the engine cross member next to the A-arm on the front side of the motor. Only 1 length of chain per side.
- You may cut wheel wells for tire clearance. May be re-bolted together with (12) 3/8” bolts or less per fender. The rear quarter panel is considered part of the rear fender.
- You may repair rusted out sheet metal with sheet metal only. Leave the rust in place and repair over it.
- Bent or rusted frames may be repaired with no bigger than 4” X 6” –3/16-inch thick and welded to only 1 side of frame and must have a 1” gap between plates. Plates must remain rectangular; plates cannot measure any bigger than 4” X 6” in any direction, THIS MEANS NO diamond shaped plates. NO using angle iron as a plate and no excessive amount of welding. Plates must be completely on frame, no standing plate on edge to weld and no shaping or cutting of plates. You must have a 1/2-inch hole in the patch. No re-patching or layering of patches. All plates must have a 1-inch gap between any frame bracket, bumper bracket and other repair plates including welds! You will be allowed 4 repair plates per frame rail for a total of 8 plates no more than 6 plates on the front of the car, the center door post divides the car in half.
- May use 9 wire instead of plates with no more than 4 loops. Don’t overdo the location of 9 wire or you will be asked to cut or relocate. (Can’t do BOTH)
- Please keep in mind, repair plates/9 wire are for rusted frames or bent frames only, they are not intended to be used as reinforcement of the frames. If a plate/9 wire is put where a car is not bent or rusted, plate/9 wire will be cut off plus an additional plate/9 wire, so do not abuse this rule (Judges decision on plates/9 wire to be sacrificed). Be fair to us and we will be fair to you.
- No adding repair plates at the event.
- You can run the shifter through the floor, and you can have a switch panel. You may also have a hand throttle. If you are running an electric fuel pump – must be hooked up to your ignition switch – so when your car shuts off – the fuel pump shuts off.
- You are allowed 1 spot per window opening with 4 loops of #9 wire from roof and may go to the frame. Must stay in the window opening. No welding washers around holes on the car body.
- You may run wire from frame rail to frame rail underneath the back of the car, behind the rear-end with 4 loops of wire or 1 loop of 3/8 chain/cable in 1 spot only. This must go around the frame, this cannot be bolted to the frame.
- Gas tank protectors are allowed, no wider than 24 inches, must be at least 2” away from rear sheet metal. It must run straight back from the rear seat bar in the center of the car and must be 4” off the floor and stay below the speaker deck. Tank Protector can only be attached to the back-seat bar with nothing attaching up or down to the body, frame, or cage. You may gusset the back-seat bar only. You are allowed a loop up off your gas tanks protector but must be straight up and not angled. Nothing higher up 4 inches above the gas tank. If you try to use the cage or protector to reinforce the car (judge’s decision) you will be asked to cut or change it.
- Aftermarket gas pedals and brake pedals are allowed can not be used to reinforce cars!!!! Must be mounted to the cage or body, not to frame or use as a gusset to reinforce the car in any way.
Any car that has an excessive amount of issues or time consuming changes (plates, cage, suspension, ect. or simply doesn't read the rules), inspection will stop and you will be asked to load. These rules are explanatory and easy to understand if they are read, with all this in mind this will speed up the inspection process.